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Whether you require a new water heater installation, replacing an old or the one you’re using is misbehaving, you don’t need to call a handyman to do this, especially if you know your way around tools. This will be easier if you have some experience with soldering copper.

The water heater installation guide remains the same regardless of the kind of water heater you use. Before you get on with it, make a call to the department of inspections and inquire of any permits. Make a point of having your work inspected by an electrical or plumbing inspector for safety purposes. If you are not very confident about your skills, call a professional.

There are a few pointers for replacing your water heater. The most common is a dead water heater and a leaking tank. This can also be associated with insufficiencies or lack of hot water. Make a plan to replace the heater immediately you notice a drop.

The water heater installation process will mean that you will be handling electricity, natural gas, and propane, so you should take caution. If it is possible, get directions from the local plumbing inspector.

Step 1- close off the gas and the water and drain the water tank

Shut the main water supply and open the faucets on the ground floor to drain the lines. Turn the closest shuttle off valve to quarter turn to turn off the gas. This way, the handle is at 90 degrees to the pipe.

Drain the water by attaching a hose to the drainage valve. Take caution because the water is extremely hot. Using a pair of wrenches, disengage the gas line at the closest union. Then with a pipe wrench, unbolt the pipe from the gas regulator valve.

Step 2- detach the water lines and Attach the relief valve

Unscrew the pipe vent starting from the hood, put it aside. Using a tube cutter, cut the cold and hot water lines. For the galvanized pipes, unscrew the bunions. If you have flexible connectors, unscrew the nuts. You can now get the old water heater of the way.

With three wraps of Teflon tape, the threads of the new pressure relief and temperature should be covered. Very tightly, screw it back using a pipe wrench. Proceed to attach a discharge copper pipe.

Step 3- attach the pipe assemblies and the water lines

For this step, add plastic-lined nipples that will guard your pipes from galvanization corrosion, more so if your area receives hard water or it is a requirement by the local codes. Solder the new copper adaptors to about 6 inches and length of a three-quarter inch. Screw-in the assemblies to the cold water inlet and the outlet for hot water. These ports are at the tank’s top

Gently place the new heater into place and adjust the old tubing to fit in, either by cutting or extending it. Use copper slip couplings to solder the pipe together. If the tubing does not seem to line up, try offsetting the lines with 45-degree elbows until this lines up.

Step 4- reattach the vent and the gas line

So far, so good. To reconnect the vent, tightly shove it over the draft hood. Then anchor it in 3/8 inches. Predrill the holes and number 6 sheet metal screws. Ensure that the vent vertically rises to about 12 inches before it turns at the first elbow.

Reconnecting the gas line will require you to coat the threads with the pipe joint compound— the first nipple should be screwed in the gas. Avoid stressing the valve by using two pipe wrenches.

Finish with the reassembly of the other nipples, finish with the bunions. To refill the tank, shut the drain valve and turn the water on from the main shutoff. Run the cold water faucet, and leave it that way. Turn on the closet hot water faucet till water starts to run, then carefully inspect for leaks at any of the fittings or joints.

Step 5- check for back drafting

The last step in the installation process involves checking the draft to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning. Do this by closing all the exterior windows and doors, then turn on the exhaust fans. Run a hot water faucet till you hear an ignition in the gas burner of the water heater. If in doubt, call in a licensed plumber to fix the problem.